Wet Cooking Method

Simmering

85°C is the number to remember. Not 100°C. Not "a good strong flame." Rolling boil pulls muscle fibers taut and forces moisture out of meat. Simmering dissolves those fibers. That 15°C difference determines whether your beef chuck is butter-tender after 3 hours, or chewing gum you throw away.

85-95°C simmering temperature (McGee, 2004)

> 70°C collagen conversion to gelatin

60-80°C albumin coagulates (skimming moment)

90 min max. cooling time 60°C to 4°C (NVWA, 2022)

Requirements

Probe thermometer or liquid thermometer Heavy-bottomed pan (cast iron or stainless steel) Skimming spoon (for skimming) ⏱ Timer Ice bath or blast chiller for HACCP cooling

Which products are suitable for simmering?

Bones & stock

Start with cold water. Heat slowly, skim as soon as albumin coagulates (60-80°C). Then simmer for 3-6 hours at 85-90°C. Do not boil: cloudy stock caused by protein particles. Veal bones yield the richest gelatin. Purchase price €1-3/kg.

Cold start Time: 3-6 hours

Connective-tissue-rich meat

Beef bottom round, beef shank, ox cheek: high collagen, inexpensive, ideal for simmering. Collagen converts to gelatin above 70°C. 3-4 hours at 88-93°C: meltingly tender result. Chicken thighs: 45-60 min at 82-88°C. Never use lean cuts: too little collagen, they become stringy.

Temp: 88-93°C Time: 3-4 hours

Fish (court-bouillon)

Fish simmers at a lower temperature: 75-82°C. Internal temperature 63°C (USDA FSIS, 2023). Court-bouillon: water, white wine, vegetables, herbs, vinegar. Vinegar lowers the pH and slightly firms the protein structure, which benefits the texture. Never exceed 85°C: fish will fall apart.

Temp: 75-82°C Core: 63°C

Vegetables & legumes

Dried legumes: 90 minutes simmering at 90°C after soaking. Carrots, celery: 20-30 min at 85°C. Dried lentils: 20-25 min. Never add salt at the start with legumes: hardening of the skin through pectin reaction. Add salt only after they are cooked.

Legumes: 90 min Vegetables: 20-30 min

Chicken breast is unsuitable for prolonged simmering: too little collagen, it becomes stringy and dry after 20 minutes. Always use chicken thighs or legs.

Step-by-step method

1

Start with cold water (for stock and braised meat)

Always begin with cold water for stock and braised meat. Cold water slowly dissolves albumin (meat protein) into the liquid, which then coagulates at 60-80°C and floats to the surface. A hot water start prevents this: albumin coagulates directly on the meat and permanently clouds the stock.

McGee (2004, p.175): "Cold water gives the allantois, pectins and flavor compounds more time to dissolve into the liquid." Most of the flavor ends up in the liquid, not in the meat.
2

Heat slowly and skim

Heat slowly. Once the liquid reaches 60-80°C, grey-brownish foam appears: coagulated albumin. This is the moment to skim. Use a wide spoon or skimmer. Remove everything that floats. Repeat every 5-10 minutes during the first 30 minutes.

Skimming is not a cosmetic step. Albumin that sinks back gives the stock a cloudy, bitter-earthy flavor that cannot be corrected. (Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire, 1903)
3

Set temperature to 85-95°C

Once the liquid has been skimmed: bring back to 85-95°C. Visually: the surface trembles slightly, occasional small bubbles rise. The water does not bubble. Use a thermometer to calibrate: most stovetops give a temperature of 70-80°C on "low" or "1," approximately 85-95°C on "2-3."

HACCP: ensure the liquid temperature stays constantly above 63°C. Below 63°C, the so-called "danger zone" (4-63°C) has been entered. During long cooking times: check the temperature every hour.
4

Doneness check on texture and temperature

Meat: skewer test with a bamboo skewer: no resistance when butter-tender. Stock: after 4-6 hours it is sufficiently full-bodied when it coats a spoon (nappe). Fish: internal temperature 63°C, flesh flakes apart easily. Vegetables: skewer test, soft but not mushy.
5

Strain and serve immediately or cool correctly

Stock: strain through a fine-mesh sieve, preferably through a cheesecloth (etamine). Meat: remove from the liquid, let rest 5-10 minutes. Serve immediately or cool immediately (HACCP).

Stock used the next day solidifies when cooled: fat floats to the top and solidifies on the surface, making it easy to remove. The result is a perfectly defatted, clear stock.

HACCP: Cooling protocol and Clostridium risk in simmered dishes

Cooling protocol: 60°C to 4°C within 90 minutes

NVWA standard: simmered meat, stock and simmered dishes that are not served immediately must be cooled from 60°C to 4°C within 90 minutes. The danger zone (4-60°C) is the temperature range where Salmonella, Listeria monocytogenes and Clostridium perfringens grow most rapidly.
Methods: (1) place pan in an ice bath and stir regularly, (2) divide the simmered dish into small containers for a greater surface-to-volume ratio, (3) blast chiller. Never place a large hot pan directly in the refrigerator: this raises the refrigerator temperature and endangers other products.
Stock solidifies when cooling due to gelatin, which complicates rapid cooling. Always divide into multiple shallow containers. (EU Regulation 852/2004, Annex II)

Source: NVWA: Cooling protocol for professional kitchens (2022); EU Regulation 852/2004

Clostridium perfringens: the specific risk with simmered dishes

Clostridium perfringens survives cooking as a heat-resistant spore. In large pans of simmered dishes that cool slowly, the core temperature reaches the safe limit of 4°C too late. During that period, spores germinate and the bacterium can multiply rapidly. Optimal growth: 43-52°C. (RIVM, 2022)
Symptoms: abdominal cramps and diarrhea 6-24 hours after consumption. In professional kitchens, this is a regularly recurring incident with poorly cooled soups, stews and stocks.
The only prevention is rapid cooling. There are no taste, odor or color changes that reveal contamination.

Source: RIVM: Clostridium perfringens food poisoning (2022); NVWA food safety guidelines

Simmering temperatures and times per product

Product	Liquid temp.	Time	Target internal temperature
Veal stock (bones)	85-90°C	4-6 hours	N/A: clear, full-bodied
Beef bottom round	88-93°C	3-4 hours	> 70°C (collagen conversion)
Ox cheek	88-93°C	4-5 hours	> 70°C (meltingly tender)
Chicken thighs	82-88°C	45-60 min	74°C (USDA FSIS, 2023)
Salmon, whole fish	75-82°C	10-20 min	63°C (USDA FSIS, 2023)
Dried legumes (soaked)	90°C	60-90 min	Done: soft when pierced

Source: Harold McGee, On Food and Cooking (Scribner, 2004); CIA Professional Chef (Wiley, 9th ed. 2011); USDA FSIS Safe Minimum Internal Temperatures (2023)

Food cost: how simmering transforms inexpensive ingredients

Bones as a free by-product: veal bones, chicken carcasses, fish frames cost €0.50-2/kg as by-products of other preparations. After 4-6 hours of simmering, this yields a fond or stock that is worth €2-5 per portion on the menu as a base for sauces, soups and risotto. The raw material cost of stock is the lowest of all professional kitchen products.
Cheap cuts, affordable cooking time: ox cheek €5-8/kg, beef bottom round €8-14/kg: on average 40-60% cheaper than grilling cuts. Simmering does require 3-5 hours of cooking on low heat. On gas burners, this is the cheapest energy technique after cold preparation. On induction: simmering at 60-80 watts is virtually negligible on the energy bill.
Batch cooking makes simmering profitable: a 10-liter pot costs barely more time than a 3-liter pot. Always plan simmered dishes in large batches: 2-3 days ahead. Quality remains the same or improves with proper cooled storage.
Waste as a flavor source: onion skins, carrot tops, parsley stems, thyme stalks: all stock base ingredients. Zero waste. What goes in the trash with other preparations becomes the flavor foundation with simmering.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between simmering and boiling?

Simmering: 85-95°C, the liquid surface trembles but does not boil, occasional small bubbles. Boiling: 100°C, rolling boil. The temperature difference is only 5-15°C, but the effect on meat is dramatic. At 100°C, muscle protein fibers coagulate too quickly and too firmly: moisture is squeezed out, meat becomes dry and tough. At 85-93°C, collagen has time to slowly hydrolyze into gelatin, resulting in tender texture and a full-bodied sauce. (Harold McGee, On Food and Cooking, Scribner, 2004)

Why do you start stock with cold water?

Cold water dissolves albumin (meat protein) into the liquid, which then slowly coagulates at 60-80°C and floats to the surface as foam, making it easy to skim. A hot water start coagulates albumin directly on the surface of meat and bones: the protein adheres and permanently clouds the stock. This cannot be corrected. Escoffier described the cold start as early as 1903 as an absolute prerequisite for clear fond. (Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire, 1903; McGee, 2004)

How long can I store simmered dishes?

Stock and simmered dishes: 3-4 days at 0-4°C, provided they are correctly cooled (60°C to 4°C within 90 minutes). Freezing: 3-4 months at -18°C for stock, 2-3 months for meat preparations. Reheating: always to a minimum internal temperature of 74°C. Never reheat more than twice. (NVWA cooling protocol; EU Regulation 852/2004)

Should I add salt during simmering?

For stock: add salt only at the end (the last 30 minutes), so you can correctly dose the concentration after reduction. For simmered vegetables: salt during cooking is fine, except for dried legumes. Legumes become harder if you add salt before they are cooked: pectin in the skin reacts with calcium and magnesium in the water, which firms the cell walls. Add salt only after cooking. (CIA Professional Chef, 2011; McGee, 2004)

How do I prevent cloudy stock?

Five rules for clear stock: (1) always start with cold water, (2) skim consistently as soon as foam appears (60-80°C), (3) never let it boil: only simmer at 85-90°C, (4) do not stir during cooking time as stirring brings protein particles back into suspension, (5) strain through cheesecloth (etamine) after cooking. Cloudy stock is the result of at least one of these five mistakes. (Escoffier, 1903; CIA Professional Chef, 2011)

Which meat is most suitable for simmering?

Simmering requires meat with high collagen content: beef bottom round, beef shank, ox cheek, brisket, pork shoulder, chicken thighs and legs. Collagen hydrolyzes above 70°C into gelatin, which provides the tender texture and full-bodied sauce. Lean, premium cuts (tenderloin, chicken breast, tournedos) contain too little collagen and become stringy and dry after prolonged simmering. Rule of thumb: the cheaper the cut, the more collagen, the more suitable for simmering. (McGee, 2004; CIA Professional Chef, 2011)

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Applying the techniques described requires professional expertise and training. KitchenNmbrs is not liable for damage, injury, illness or loss resulting from the application of information from this website without adequate professional guidance or verification. Every kitchen, every product and every environment is different: always apply your own professional judgement.

Food safety & HACCP

The HACCP guidelines, temperatures and storage advice on this page are based on Codex Alimentarius (WHO/FAO) as the global baseline standard and EU Regulation 852/2004. Local laws and regulations may differ. Always consult your national food safety authority for the applicable standards in your region:

Netherlands: NVWA (nvwa.nl)
Belgium: FAVV (favv-afsca.be)
Germany: BfR (bfr.bund.de)
United Kingdom: FSA (food.gov.uk)
United States: FDA (fda.gov) — FDA Food Code
EU general: EU Regulation (EC) 852/2004 on food hygiene
International: Codex Alimentarius CAC/RCP 1-1969 (revised 2020)

Allergens & dietary information

Allergen information is indicative. When in doubt about allergens in preparations, always contact the supplier or a certified allergological adviser. KitchenNmbrs accepts no liability for allergic reactions or diet-related harm.

Copyright & sources

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Sources and legal information

Harold McGee: On Food and Cooking (Scribner, 2004): simmering temperature, albumin, collagen and stock
Auguste Escoffier: Le Guide Culinaire (Flammarion, 1903): cold start and skimming
CIA (Culinary Institute of America): The Professional Chef, 9th edition (Wiley, 2011): simmering and braising techniques
USDA FSIS: Safe Minimum Internal Temperature Chart (2023): internal temperatures for poultry and fish
NVWA: Cooling protocol for professional kitchens: rapid cooling (2022)
EU Regulation (EC) 852/2004: Annex II, Chapter IX: temperature control of prepared food
RIVM: Clostridium perfringens: food poisoning from insufficiently cooled stews (2022)