Rillettes making
Rillettes are a classic French charcuterie preparation: meat (pork, duck, rabbit or fish) is slowly cooked in its own fat at 80-90°C for 3-6 hours, then hand-shredded and cooled in jars with a protective fat layer on top. The method originates from the Touraine and Sarthe regions (Loire Valley, 15th century) and was codified by Escoffier. The result is a concentrated, unctuous meat spread with rich flavour. The fat layer as a seal serves both as a flavour element and a preservation method (NVWA: maximum 4 weeks at <4°C).
In brief
Rillettes: meat cooked in its own fat at low temperature (80-90°C), then hand-shredded with forks (not minced). The result is a coarse, fibrous spread with 40-50% fat. Stored under a sealed fat layer at <4°C.
- Fat ratio 40-50%: less produces a dry, grainy texture; more produces an excessively greasy taste
- Cooking temperature 80-90°C: meat falls apart tender but not disintegrating
- Hand-shredding: structure intact, no mincing or grinding
- Fat layer as preservation: seals out oxygen, prevents oxidation and bacterial growth
Rillettes varieties by meat base
Rillettes de porc (pork rillettes)
The classic version from Tours. Pork shoulder or belly in lard at 80-90°C for 4-6 hours. Hand-shredded with two forks. Seasoned with thyme, bay leaf, garlic and nutmeg. The reference version for all other rillettes.
Examples: Rillettes de Tours, rillettes du Mans, bistro bread spread
Rillettes de canard (duck rillettes)
Duck legs cooked in duck fat at 80-85°C. Richer, deeper flavour than pork. Lower fat ratio than confit (less fat, more meat). Shredded and mixed with the cooking fat.
Examples: Duck rillettes with cornichons, Perigord-style, fine dining spread
Rillettes de saumon (fish rillettes)
Poached or smoked salmon shredded with butter or creme fraiche (instead of animal fat). Lower temperature than meat rillettes. No true storage under a fat layer possible: maximum 3 days at <4°C.
Examples: Salmon rillettes as amuse-bouche, fish rillettes with capers
Preparing rillettes: from raw meat to jar
-
1
Portion the meat
Cut the pork shoulder into 5-7cm pieces. Remove excessively large fat lumps but leave intramuscular fat intact. Season with salt (2% of weight), pepper, thyme, bay leaf and garlic.
Larger pieces give better fibre structure when shredding: small pieces become mushy. The flavour is in the fat: do not remove too much fat during portioning. -
2
Cook in fat at 80-90°C
Melt lard or goose fat in a heavy pan. Add the meat: the pieces must be fully submerged in fat. Set the heat low: 80-90°C, never boiling. Cover and cook for 3-6 hours.
At 80-90°C, the collagen slowly converts to gelatine and the muscle fibres become shreddable. Above 100°C the meat becomes dry and stringy in the wrong way. A cooking thermometer is essential. -
3
Check for doneness
Remove a piece of meat from the fat. Press with two forks: the meat should be fall-apart tender and effortlessly separate into long fibres. Core temperature: minimum 75°C (NVWA). If the meat remains tough: cook longer.
Rillettes are done when the meat spontaneously falls apart without cutting. Undercooked meat produces grainy, tough rillettes. Overcooked meat (more than 6 hours) loses all structure and becomes mushy. -
4
Shred and mix
Remove the meat from the fat. Reserve the cooking fat. Shred the pieces with two forks into long, coarse fibres. Do not use a food processor: this creates a paste, not rillettes. Mix the shredded meat with sufficient cooking fat (40-50% of total weight).
Taste and adjust salt, pepper and nutmeg after shredding. The flavour is more intense than with raw meat: season cautiously. Allow the mixture to cool slightly before transferring to jars (the fat blends better when slightly cooled). -
5
Fill jars and seal
Fill sterilised preserving jars or terrine pots. Press the mixture down to remove air bubbles. Pour a layer of 1-2cm melted fat over the surface. Allow to set completely in the refrigerator.
The fat layer is the preservation: fat seals out oxygen and prevents bacterial growth and oxidation. An incomplete fat layer (thinner than 1cm) leads to faster spoilage. Store for a maximum of 4 weeks at <4°C under the fat seal.
HACCP: core temperature and anaerobic storage risk
Core temperature and Clostridium botulinum
- Clostridium botulinum: anaerobic pathogen that thrives in fat-sealed products. Rillettes under a fat layer are an anaerobic environment. NVWA requires: core temperature of at least 75°C for 2 minutes before potting. This is the critical control point.
- pH requirement: botulinum spores survive heating but do not produce toxin at pH below 4.6. Rillettes have a neutral pH: temperature control (<4°C) is the only barrier.
- NVWA regulations: commercial rillettes require a HACCP plan with Clostridium as a specific CCP. Home preparation without pH reduction or sterilisation has a limited shelf life of maximum 4 weeks at <4°C.
NVWA HACCP Guidelines for Hospitality 2020; EU 852/2004
Storage and shelf life
- Under fat seal at <4°C: maximum 4 weeks for meat rillettes. After opening: maximum 7 days, fat layer compromised.
- Fish rillettes: no protective fat layer possible: maximum 3 days at <4°C. Never freeze and thaw: the emulsion of butter and fish breaks down.
- Rapid cooling: from 75°C to 4°C in a maximum of 4 hours. A large pot of rillettes cools slowly in the refrigerator: use an ice water bath to accelerate cooling.
EU 852/2004; Ruhlman, Charcuterie, 2005
Rillettes varieties: fat ratio and cooking time
| Meat base | Fat source | Cooking time | Fat ratio | Shelf life |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pork | Lard | 4-6 hours | 40-50% | 4 weeks <4°C |
| Duck | Duck fat | 3-5 hours | 35-45% | 4 weeks <4°C |
| Rabbit | Lard | 3-4 hours | 35-40% | 3 weeks <4°C |
| Salmon | Butter/cream | 20-30 min | 25-35% | 3 days <4°C |
Sources: Ruhlman & Polcyn, Charcuterie (2005); CIA Garde Manger (2012)
Food cost: rillettes as a premium product from inexpensive ingredients
- Inexpensive cuts, premium product: rillettes use inexpensive cuts (pork shoulder €4-6/kg, pork belly €3-5/kg). Due to the rich flavour and charcuterie status, rillettes are priced on restaurant menus at €6-12 per portion (40g), resulting in a food cost of 15-25%.
- Batch yield: 1 kg of raw ingredients yields 750-850g of rillettes after cooking and shredding (15-20% weight loss). At a purchase price of €5/kg effective: €0.60-0.70 per 40g portion. Labour-intensive but excellently scalable.
- Waste valorisation: pork and duck fat that would otherwise be discarded (trimmings from other preparations) is the ideal fat source for rillettes. Rillettes are therefore a waste-reducing product that fully utilises purchased ingredients.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between rillettes and pate?
Why should I not put the rillettes through a food processor?
How long do homemade rillettes keep?
Can I freeze rillettes?
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Applying the techniques described requires professional expertise and training. KitchenNmbrs is not liable for damage, injury, illness or loss resulting from the application of information from this website without adequate professional guidance or verification. Every kitchen, every product and every environment is different: always apply your own professional judgement.
Food safety & HACCP
The HACCP guidelines, temperatures and storage advice on this page are based on Codex Alimentarius (WHO/FAO) as the global baseline standard and EU Regulation 852/2004. Local laws and regulations may differ. Always consult your national food safety authority for the applicable standards in your region:
- Netherlands: NVWA (nvwa.nl)
- Belgium: FAVV (favv-afsca.be)
- Germany: BfR (bfr.bund.de)
- United Kingdom: FSA (food.gov.uk)
- United States: FDA (fda.gov) — FDA Food Code
- EU general: EU Regulation (EC) 852/2004 on food hygiene
- International: Codex Alimentarius CAC/RCP 1-1969 (revised 2020)
Allergens & dietary information
Allergen information is indicative. When in doubt about allergens in preparations, always contact the supplier or a certified allergological adviser. KitchenNmbrs accepts no liability for allergic reactions or diet-related harm.
Copyright & sources
All sources mentioned (Escoffier, McGee, CIA Professional Chef, etc.) are the property of their respective publishers and authors. KitchenNmbrs cites these works in accordance with fair use for informational purposes. The source attribution at the bottom of each technique page is not a complete bibliography but an indication of primary sources consulted.
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Record core temperature and shelf life of your charcuterie products
KitchenNmbrs records potting date, core temperature, fat layer status and shelf life of every rillettes batch for NVWA compliance.
7 days free. No credit card required. Start free trial →Sources and legal information
- Auguste Escoffier — Le Guide Culinaire (Flammarion, 1903/2011)
- Michael Ruhlman & Brian Polcyn — Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing (Norton, 2005)
- CIA Garde Manger: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen, 4th edition (Wiley, 2012)
- Larousse Gastronomique (Larousse, 2001 edition)
- NVWA — HACCP Guidelines for Hospitality (revised 2020)
- EU Regulation (EC) 852/2004 — HACCP for charcuterie preparation and storage
