Fermenting
The oldest preservation technique in the world: micro-organisms transform sugars into acids, alcohol and complex flavour compounds. From kimchi and sauerkraut to miso and garum: fermentation is back in the professional kitchen as a value creation strategy.
In brief
Fermentation is a microbiological conversion process in which sugars are transformed by bacteria, yeasts or moulds into acids, alcohol, CO2 or other compounds. This lowers the pH, inhibits pathogenic micro-organisms and creates complex flavour profiles. Fermentation is one of the oldest and safest preservation techniques, when correctly executed. (FAO/WHO, Health and Nutritional Properties of Probiotics in Food, 2006)
- Lacto-fermentation (lactic acid fermentation): Lactobacillus bacteria convert sugars into lactic acid. pH drops from 6.5 to 3.5-4.5. Sauerkraut, pickles, kimchi, yoghurt, kefir. Most widely applied in the professional kitchen. Anaerobic: no oxygen. Salt keeps pathogens at bay while lactobacilli thrive. (Sandor Katz, The Art of Fermentation, 2012)
- Alcoholic fermentation: Saccharomyces cerevisiae (baker's yeast) converts sugars into ethanol + CO2. The basis of sourdough bread, beer, wine, sake, mirin. Sourdough combines yeast and bacterial fermentation: lactic acid + acetic acid + CO2 for leavening.
- Acetic acid fermentation (acetobacter): an aerobic process in which ethanol is converted into acetic acid. The basis of cider vinegar, rice vinegar, balsamic vinegar and kombucha. Kombucha: a SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast) ferments sweetened tea.
- Koji fermentation (mould fermentation): Aspergillus oryzae or Aspergillus sojae produce protease, amylase and lipase enzymes that break down proteins and carbohydrates into amino acids (umami). The basis of miso, soy sauce, sake, amazake, tempeh. Modern application: "garum" from fish, meat or vegetables via koji. Fermentation times: 3 weeks (shiro miso) to 3 years (hatcho miso). (Rene Redzepi & David Zilber, The Noma Guide to Fermentation, Artisan 2018)
Four fermentation types
Lacto-fermentation
Lactobacillus converts sugars into lactic acid. Anaerobic. Salt 2-3% of product weight. Temperature 18-22°C. Result: low pH (3.5-4.5), long shelf life, complex sour flavour.
Examples: Sauerkraut, kimchi, pickles, yoghurt, kefir, miso (combined)
Alcoholic fermentation
Yeasts convert sugars into ethanol + CO2. The basis of sourdough (combined with lacto-fermentation), sake, mirin. Temperature: 18-25°C for sourdough. Timing: 8-72 hours per cycle.
Examples: Sourdough bread, sake, mirin, beer, wine
Acetic acid fermentation
Aerobic: acetobacter converts ethanol into acetic acid. Requires oxygen. The basis of all vinegar types and kombucha. Result: high acidity, strongly preserving.
Examples: Cider vinegar, rice vinegar, balsamic vinegar, kombucha
Koji / mould fermentation
Aspergillus oryzae enzymes break down proteins into umami-rich amino acids. Modern garum revival in fine dining. Fermentation times ranging from weeks to years.
Examples: Miso, soy sauce, sake, garum, amazake, shio koji
Sources: Sandor Katz (2012); Rene Redzepi & David Zilber (2018); FAO/WHO (2006)
Fermented products in the professional kitchen
Kimchi
Korean lacto-fermented napa cabbage with gochugaru, garlic and ginger. pH 3.5-4.0 after 1-4 weeks. Active lactobacilli. Refrigerate once desired ripeness is reached.
Sauerkraut
White cabbage, 2% salt (by weight), anaerobic fermentation. Industrial: 4-8 weeks. Artisanal: 2-4 weeks at 18-22°C. pH 3.5-4.5 at ripeness. Vitamin C content increases during fermentation.
Miso
Koji (A. oryzae) on rice or barley combined with soybeans + salt. Ripening time: 3 weeks (shiro miso, sweet) to 3 years (hatcho miso, intense). Base ingredient for dashi-based sauces.
Garum
Modern reinterpretation: fish, meat or vegetable garum via koji enzymes at 60°C for 4-8 weeks. Noma popularised beef garum and mushroom garum. Intense umami in small quantities.
Sourdough
Wild yeast (Saccharomyces + Kazachstania) + lactobacilli in wheat flour-water starter. Feed daily. Proofing times: 8-16 hours cold (refrigerator) or 3-6 hours warm (25°C). pH of ripe sourdough: 3.5-4.5.
Kombucha
SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast) ferments sweetened tea. Phase 1: yeast converts sugar into ethanol. Phase 2: acetobacter converts ethanol into acetic acid. End product: <0.5% alcohol, pH 2.5-3.5.
Step-by-step method
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1
Select and wash the vegetables
Use fresh, undamaged vegetables. Damaged tissue increases the risk of unwanted micro-organisms. Wash thoroughly in accordance with EU 852/2004. Cut or grate to the desired thickness. Weigh the final vegetable weight precisely for correct salt calculation.
HACCP: use only clean equipment and containers. Glass or food-safe plastic (no metal: salt corrodes). -
2
Weigh salt precisely (2-3%)
Weigh 2-3% salt based on vegetable weight. Example: 1,000 g cabbage = 20-30 g salt (non-iodised). Iodised salt can inhibit fermentation due to the antimicrobial action of iodine. Use Celtic sea salt, Himalayan salt or non-iodised table salt. (Sandor Katz, The Art of Fermentation, 2012)
Below 1.5% salt: fermentation proceeds quickly but is less stable. Above 3.5%: fermentation is slower and the end product saltier. -
3
Mix and massage
Mix vegetables and salt. Massage or knead for 5-10 minutes. The salt draws moisture from the vegetable cells via osmosis: this is the brine that submerges the vegetables. Sufficient brine is crucial: an anaerobic environment prevents oxidation and mould growth.
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4
Pack and submerge
Pack the vegetables tightly into a glass jar or fermentation vessel. Press down so the brine rises above the vegetables. Remove air bubbles. Place a weight (stone or fermentation weight) to keep everything submerged. Vegetables above the brine surface may develop mould (surface mould is not dangerous but unpleasant).
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5
Start fermentation (18-22°C)
Seal the jar but not completely airtight (CO2 must be able to escape). An airlock is ideal. Store at 18-22°C out of direct sunlight. First 24-48 hours: CO2 bubbles become visible (sign that fermentation has started). The brine may become slightly cloudy: this is normal.
Monitor daily for mould growth (surface) or foul odour (rot). If the brine is slimy and smells strongly unpleasant: discard the batch. -
6
Measure pH after 48-72 hours
Measure the pH of the brine after 48-72 hours. Target: pH must have dropped below 5.0 as a sign of active lacto-fermentation. Target end value: 3.5-4.5. pH above 5.0 after 3 days: check salt percentage, temperature and cleanliness of the vessel. Log each measurement: date, batch number, pH value, temperature.
HACCP critical point: pH above 4.6 after completed fermentation leaves the risk of Clostridium botulinum open. In anaerobic fermentation with insufficient acid: botulism is theoretically possible. In practice, correctly executed lacto-fermentation (pH < 4.6) is inherently safe. -
7
Ripen and store cold
After 3-14 days (depending on vegetable, temperature and desired flavour profile) the fermentation is complete. Refrigerate (< 4°C) to virtually halt the fermentation. Flavour continues to develop under refrigeration but very slowly. Shelf life: cold-fermented vegetables 3-6 months provided they remain submerged in brine. Label each batch: product, start date, pH, salt%, chef.
HACCP: pH monitoring and botulism risk
Clostridium botulinum and the pH threshold of 4.6
- Clostridium botulinum produces the most potent biological toxin known (botulinum toxin). Its spores are anaerobic and can survive in preserved and fermented products. The critical safety threshold: at pH below 4.6, C. botulinum cannot grow or produce toxin. (FDA Bacteriological Analytical Manual)
- Correctly executed lacto-fermentation reaches pH 3.5-4.5 and is therefore inherently safe. Risk arises with insufficient salt percentage, too high a temperature or insufficient ripening time, preventing the pH from dropping.
- HACCP requirement for the professional kitchen: pH monitoring per fermentation batch is mandatory. Document date, batch number, starting pH, pH after 48h, final pH. Destroy batches where the final pH exceeds 4.6.
Source: FDA Bacteriological Analytical Manual; EU Regulation 852/2004
Surface mould versus spoilage
- White kahm yeast (Kahm yeast, e.g. Pichia and Candida species) on the fermentation surface is unpleasant but not dangerous. Remove the layer and ensure vegetables are submerged below the brine again.
- Coloured mould (green, black, pink): these are pathogenic moulds that can produce mycotoxins. Discard the batch. Cause: vegetables above the brine surface, too low a salt concentration or contamination via dirty equipment.
- Smell is the most reliable indicator: properly fermented products smell sour and pleasant. A strong putrid or meaty odour indicates unwanted bacterial growth.
Source: Sandor Katz — The Art of Fermentation (2012); RIVM — Fermentation and food safety
Lacto-fermentation: salt, temperature and ripening time
| Product | Salt percentage | Temperature | Ripening time | Target pH |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sauerkraut | 2.0-2.5% of cabbage weight | 18-22°C | 2-8 weeks | 3.5-4.5 |
| Kimchi | 2.0-3.0% total | 18-22°C (start), then cold | 1-4 weeks + post-ripening | 3.5-4.0 |
| Fermented pickle | 2.5-3.5% brine solution | 18-22°C | 3-7 days | 3.5-4.0 |
| Lacto-fermented vegetables (general) | 2-3% of vegetable weight | 20-22°C | 3-14 days | 3.5-4.5 |
| Shio koji (salt rice) | 10% salt by rice weight | 28-35°C (for koji growth) | 48-72 hours koji + 1-2 wk ripening | n/a |
Source: Sandor Katz — The Art of Fermentation (Chelsea Green, 2012); FAO/WHO Probiotics in Food (2006)
Food cost: value creation from inexpensive raw materials
- Kimchi from inexpensive cabbage varieties: Napa cabbage (€0.60-1.20/kg) + small amounts of gochugaru, garlic, ginger. Fermentation costs: energy (room temperature) + labour (30 min preparation). One kilogram of kimchi after fermentation: market value €6-12 per kg as a side dish or €15-25 as a specialty product. ROI: 5-15x on raw materials. (Market prices 2024)
- Garum from meat or fish trimmings: Trimmings from fish, meat or mushrooms that would otherwise go to stock are transformed via koji into an umami-rich liquid. Noma's beef garum uses minced beef (€4-8/kg). The end product is a flavour enhancer for which restaurants pay a premium. Transform waste into value.
- Sourdough as an alternative to purchased bread: A living sourdough starter costs virtually nothing (flour + water + time). Compared to commercial yeast: cheaper per use at large volumes. Bread made from sourdough has a higher perceived value than standard yeast bread and justifies a higher menu price per unit.
- Fermentation and shelf life: Fermented vegetables (kimchi, pickles, sauerkraut) have a shelf life of 3-6 months when stored correctly. This significantly reduces food waste compared to fresh vegetables (3-7 days). For a restaurant with daily purchasing, a fermentation programme can structurally reduce the waste percentage.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if my fermentation was successful?
Which salt should I use for fermentation?
Is fermentation safe in the professional kitchen?
What is koji and how do I use it?
Why does the pH drop during fermentation?
What is the difference between kimchi and sauerkraut?
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Food safety & HACCP
The HACCP guidelines, temperatures and storage advice on this page are based on Codex Alimentarius (WHO/FAO) as the global baseline standard and EU Regulation 852/2004. Local laws and regulations may differ. Always consult your national food safety authority for the applicable standards in your region:
- Netherlands: NVWA (nvwa.nl)
- Belgium: FAVV (favv-afsca.be)
- Germany: BfR (bfr.bund.de)
- United Kingdom: FSA (food.gov.uk)
- United States: FDA (fda.gov) — FDA Food Code
- EU general: EU Regulation (EC) 852/2004 on food hygiene
- International: Codex Alimentarius CAC/RCP 1-1969 (revised 2020)
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Allergen information is indicative. When in doubt about allergens in preparations, always contact the supplier or a certified allergological adviser. KitchenNmbrs accepts no liability for allergic reactions or diet-related harm.
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- Sandor Katz — The Art of Fermentation (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2012)
- Rene Redzepi & David Zilber — The Noma Guide to Fermentation (Artisan, 2018)
- Harold McGee — On Food and Cooking (Scribner, 2004) — micro-organisms and pH
- FAO/WHO — Health and Nutritional Properties of Probiotics in Food (FAO Food and Nutrition Paper 85, 2006)
- EU Regulation 852/2004 — food hygiene (fermentation as traditional preservation)
- FDA Bacteriological Analytical Manual — Clostridium botulinum, Chapter 17