Cold classic: Tartar Sauce
The first time I cut a proper cornichon brunoise, the sous-chef looked at me as if I had insulted his grandmother. Two-centimetre thick cubes. "Those are not pickles in a sauce, that is a salad," he said, and walked away. Since then I know: tartar sauce is detail work. Two-millimetre brunoise, maximum. Squeeze everything dry before it goes in. And never, but truly never, use regular sweet pickled gherkins. Cornichons. Always cornichons.
In brief
Tartar sauce (sauce tartare) is a cold sauce based on mayonnaise, supplemented with finely diced cornichons, capers, shallot, parsley and almost always finely chopped hard-boiled egg. The sauce originates from 19th-century French cuisine and was classified by Escoffier (1903) as a variant of sauce remoulade. The hallmark is the texture: not smooth, but with small pieces that make every bite different. The balance between the richness of the mayo, the acidity of the cornichon, the bitterness of the capers and the herbaceousness of the parsley is what defines the sauce.
- Cornichon vs gherkin: the choice is not cosmetic. Cornichons (small gherkins in wine vinegar with tarragon) have a more finely acidic, more aromatic profile than the typical sweet pickled gherkin. The acid type differs: cornichon is based on wine vinegar, while sweet pickled gherkins use sweet brine. In a mayonnaise base, sweet gherkins dominate and lack the counterpoint that balances the sauce. (Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire, Flammarion, 1903)
- Capers: the secret weapon. Capers contain rutin, a glucosinolate that is released when bitten into, giving a mildly sharp-bitter accent. In combination with the richness of the mayonnaise, this acts as a flavour enhancer. Always rinse before use: the brine concentration is too high for direct incorporation. Nonpareilles (smaller than 7mm) are the finest for tartar sauce. (Larousse Gastronomique, Editions Larousse, 2009)
- Hard-boiled egg: not all versions include this. The classic Escoffier version has capers and cornichons as the only additions. The variants with hard-boiled egg are Belgian-Dutch in origin and widespread in hospitality. The egg adds extra creaminess and texture. The egg whites used raw in the mayo are a separate HACCP concern (see safety section). (CIA The Professional Chef, 9th edition, Wiley, 2011)
- Mustard as an emulsion stabilizer: many tartar sauce recipes include a teaspoon of Dijon mustard. That mustard serves two functions: flavour (sharp, spicy) and emulsion stability. Mustard contains lecithin and mucilage compounds that stabilize a mayonnaise emulsion and reduce the risk of breaking during temperature fluctuations. Mustard is an EU-mandatory allergen (Regulation 1169/2011 Annex II). (McGee, On Food and Cooking, Scribner, 2004, p.628)
Five tartar sauce variants for the professional kitchen
Classic Sauce Tartare (Escoffier)
Mayonnaise, cornichon brunoise, capers, shallot, parsley and a pinch of tarragon. No hard-boiled egg in the original version. This is the base as Escoffier established it in 1903. Tighter, less creamy than the Belgian-Dutch variant, but with more finesse. Perfect for fish and seafood.
Examples: Pan-fried fish, shrimp cocktail, crudites
Dutch Tartar Sauce (with Hard Egg)
The standard version in Dutch kitchens: mayonnaise, finely chopped hard-boiled egg, cornichon, capers, shallot, parsley and mustard. Creamier than the French version, slightly fuller in flavour. This is what most guests mean when they order "tartar sauce" in a restaurant.
Examples: Battered fish bites, fish fillet, fries, croquette
Green Herb Variant
Tartar sauce where herbs take the lead: extra parsley, chives, tarragon and chervil. Less cornichon, no egg. Sometimes lightly blended for a green colour. Lean and fresh in profile. Excellent as a sauce with grilled white meat or poultry.
Examples: Chicken breast, grilled sea bass, asparagus
Spicy Tartar Sauce
Base tartar sauce enhanced with Tabasco, Worcestershire and finely chopped jalapeno. Popular as a side with fried food and burgers. The additional acids from the Worcestershire provide an umami depth that the classic version lacks.
Examples: Burgers, fish and chips, fries
Fish Restaurant Remoulade
A cross between tartar sauce and remoulade: mayonnaise, cornichon, capers, anchovy (finely chopped), mustard, tarragon and lemon. The anchovy adds umami depth without a fishy taste. This is the sauce you find in classic fish restaurants alongside plateaux de fruits de mer.
Examples: Plateaux de fruits de mer, oysters, smoked salmon
Sources: Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire (1903); Larousse Gastronomique (2009); CIA Professional Chef 9th edition (2011); NVWA Hygiene Code Hospitality (2023)
Three techniques for a better tartar sauce
Cornichon or gherkin: always cornichon
Cornichon and regular gherkins are not interchangeable. Cornichon is pickled in wine vinegar with tarragon and herbs: a complex, dry-acidic profile. Regular gherkins are sweet-pickled and too bulky. If you have no cornichons, use more capers and add a knife-tip of tarragon. It is not the same, but it is acceptable. Regular gherkins are never acceptable.
All tartar sauce variants
Shallot vs onion: never onion
Tartar sauce calls for shallot, not onion. Shallot is more refined, sweeter and less sulphurous. In a cold sauce without heating, the raw flavour of onion lingers and overpowers. Shallot blends better into the profile. If you still want an onion component, use chives as an alternative for a milder, fresher note.
Classic and green herb variant
Lemon juice: finishing, not as a base
Lemon juice is the final touch of a tartar sauce, not a large amount worked into the base. A drop or two: that balances the richness of the mayo and enlivens the flavour. Too much lemon juice makes the sauce overly acidic and breaks the emulsion over time through increased acidity.
All variants as a finishing touch
Step by step: tartar sauce done properly
-
1
Cornichons and capers: brunoise and rinse
Rinse the capers under cold running water and pat dry. Cut the cornichons into julienne and then into brunoise of maximum 2mm. Place the diced cornichon in a clean tea towel and wring out the moisture. This is not an optional step: wet cornichon makes your tartar sauce watery. Chop the capers coarsely: not too fine, you want texture.
Capers do not need to be squeezed out: they hold less moisture than cornichon. Cornichon: always squeeze. Always. -
2
Shallot and parsley: fine brunoise and chiffonade
Cut the shallot into the finest possible brunoise: maximum 1-2mm. Raw shallot in large pieces in a sauce delivers a sharp, unpleasant flavour that dominates. Parsley: chop finely, no coarse stems. Leaves only. Use a dry cloth to lightly blot the parsley after chopping.
Want to reduce the sharpness of raw shallot? Rinse the brunoise for 30 seconds under cold water. You lose minimal flavour, but the biting sharpness disappears. -
3
Hard-boiled egg (for the Dutch variant)
Boil the egg for 10 minutes in gently simmering water with salt and a drop of vinegar (prevents leaking through cracks). Cool immediately in ice water. Peel and chop finely: not too coarse, not too fine. The egg white gives structure, the yolk gives creaminess. Add to the mayo after all other ingredients are already well combined.
Hard-boiled egg in tartar sauce: eggs are an EU-mandatory allergen (Regulation 1169/2011) and one of the FDA's 9 major allergens. Declare on the menu. Prepared tartar sauce with egg: max 3 days at max 7°C / 45°F. Never use raw egg in the sauce for vulnerable groups (pregnant women, elderly, children, immunocompromised guests). (NVWA Hygiene Code Hospitality 2023; FDA Food Code 2017) -
4
Mix: mayo as a base, not as a slurry
Start with good quality mayonnaise or homemade mayo. Add the dry ingredients and fold with a spatula, not a whisk: you want to preserve texture, not make a smooth sauce. Season with salt, white pepper, a drop of lemon juice and optionally a knife-tip of Dijon mustard. Taste after each ingredient.
Too acidic? Add a pinch of sugar. Too bland? Squeeze the cornichon more, add more capers. Too rich? Lemon juice cuts through the fat. Balancing tartar sauce is a matter of tasting, not measuring. -
5
Store per HACCP: cold and labeled
Tartar sauce on a mayonnaise base: refrigerate immediately after preparation to max 7°C / 45°F. Store in a sealed container, labeled with contents, preparation date, use-by date and name of responsible chef.
Maximum shelf life: 3 days at max 7°C / 45°F. Never store at room temperature: mayonnaise emulsions are vulnerable to bacterial growth (Salmonella, Listeria) above 7°C / 45°F. Tartar sauce that has been unrefrigerated for more than 2 hours: discard. (NVWA Hygiene Code Hospitality 2023; EU Regulation 853/2004; FDA Food Code 2017 §3-501.16)
HACCP: Mayonnaise, Eggs and Cold Sauces
Tartar sauce falls in the category of cold egg-based sauces. This means: strict temperature control, short shelf life and clear allergen declaration. The two main risks are (1) the mayonnaise base which is microbiologically vulnerable above 7°C / 45°F, and (2) the egg component which can contain Salmonella if the eggs have not been properly handled.
Eggs in cold sauces: Salmonella risk and NVWA/FDA guidelines
Tartar sauce contains eggs, directly (hard-boiled) or indirectly (mayonnaise). Eggs are a primary source of Salmonella enterica. For prepared cold sauces with egg: storage temperature maximum 7°C / 45°F, maximum shelf life 3 days, clear labeling obligations.
For vulnerable groups (pregnant women, elderly, immunocompromised): use only pasteurized eggs or industrial mayonnaise from a certified producer. Never homemade raw-egg mayo for these groups. (NVWA Hygiene Code Hospitality 2023; FDA Food Code 2017, Egg Safety; USDA FSIS)
Source: NVWA Hygiene Code for Hospitality (2023); EU Regulation 853/2004 (hygiene of animal products); FDA Food Code 2017 (egg safety); USDA FSIS Egg Products Inspection
Allergen warning: eggs, mustard, celery (in some variants)
Tartar sauce contains as standard two EU-mandatory allergens: eggs (directly or via mayonnaise) and mustard (as a stabilizer in mayo or as an addition). The remoulade variant also contains fish (anchovy). The Worcestershire variant may contain celery.
Declare ALL allergens present on the menu and in your establishment's allergen register. Eggs and mustard are always present in standard tartar sauce: no exceptions. (EU Regulation 1169/2011 Annex II; FDA FALCPA)
Source: EU Regulation (EU) No. 1169/2011, Annex II (mandatory allergens); NVWA Allergen Information Guide for Hospitality (2023); FDA FALCPA
HACCP reference table: tartar sauce storage and risks
| Variant | Risk | Storage temp | Max shelf life | Allergens |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic sauce tartare (Escoffier) | Salmonella in mayo | < 7 °C / 45 °F | 3 days | Eggs, mustard |
| Dutch tartar sauce (with hard egg) | Salmonella, Listeria | < 7 °C / 45 °F | 3 days | Eggs, mustard |
| Green herb variant | Salmonella in mayo | < 7 °C / 45 °F | 3 days | Eggs, mustard |
| Remoulade with anchovy | Salmonella + fish allergen | < 7 °C / 45 °F | 3 days | Eggs, mustard, fish |
| Spicy tartar sauce (Tabasco) | Salmonella in mayo | < 7 °C / 45 °F | 3 days | Eggs, mustard, celery (Worcestershire) |
Homemade vs industrial tartar sauce
| Aspect | Homemade | Industrial (hospitality packaging) |
|---|---|---|
| Flavour profile | Fresh, complex, adjustable | Stable, homogeneous, less nuance |
| Shelf life | 3 days max | 3-6 months unopened |
| Cost per litre | approx. €3-5 (homemade mayo included) | approx. €8-15 (hospitality packaging 2.5L) |
| Allergen control | Fully in your own hands | Standardized label info from manufacturer |
| Adjustability | Any variant possible | Fixed formula |
Tartar sauce is a learning dish. You make it for the first time and it is too thin, too coarse, or too acidic. The second time it is better. After the tenth time you know exactly what you are doing. Then you squeeze automatically, cut at 2mm automatically, and always taste at the end. That is all there is to it.
Jeffrey Smit, former kitchen manager
Food cost: tartar sauce per portion
- Ingredient cost for classic tartar sauce (1 litre): mayonnaise 800ml (approx. €2.40 homemade, €3.50 industrial) + cornichons 80g (€0.40) + capers 40g (€0.60) + shallot 40g (€0.20) + parsley 20g (€0.15) + eggs 2 pcs (€0.40) = €4.15-€5.25 per litre homemade.
- Portion size: 40-60ml as a side with fish. At 50ml and €5 per litre cost = 25 cents per portion. Industrial variant on the hospitality market: €0.40-€0.70 per portion equivalent. Homemade is thus comparable in price but significantly higher in quality.
- Cornichon quality determines the price: Maille cornichons extra-fins (€12-18 per kg) vs budget cornichon (€4-6 per kg). The difference is immediately noticeable in the sauce. For a premium fish restaurant: always Maille or equivalent. For a fish-and-chips shop: budget is acceptable.
- Hard-boiled egg as a cost extender: the egg in the sauce is not a luxury ingredient, it is an extension of the mayo. One large egg (€0.20) per 200ml tartar sauce adds more volume and creaminess at minimal extra cost. Do not forget to declare the egg as an allergen.
Frequently asked questions: tartar sauce in the professional kitchen
Which type of pickle do you use for tartar sauce?
Always cornichon, never regular sweet pickled gherkins. Cornichon is pickled in wine vinegar with tarragon and herbs: a dry-acidic, aromatic profile. Regular gherkins are sweet-pickled and give a too bulky, sweet flavour that throws the sauce out of balance.
Best brand for the professional kitchen: Maille cornichons extra-fins. Budget alternative: Hengstenberg cornichons. Never dice larger gherkins more finely as a substitute: the brine component is fundamentally different. (Larousse Gastronomique, 2009)
How do I prevent tartar sauce from becoming watery?
Two causes of watery tartar sauce: (1) cornichon not squeezed before adding, (2) onion or shallot not drained. Cornichon contains a lot of moisture from the brining process. Squeezing in a cloth removes this moisture and prevents the emulsion from breaking.
Second tip: add all ingredients to the mayonnaise, cover and let rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator before serving. The ingredients will meld and the sauce becomes firmer. (CIA Professional Chef, 2011)
How long does tartar sauce keep?
Maximum 3 days at max 7°C / 45°F. Tartar sauce on a mayonnaise base is microbiologically vulnerable: Salmonella and Listeria can grow above 7°C / 45°F. Always label with preparation date and use-by date. After 3 days, discard, even if the sauce looks and smells fine.
Industrial tartar sauce: shelf life up to 3-6 months unopened due to pasteurization and preservatives. After opening: same protocol as homemade. (NVWA Hygiene Code Hospitality 2023; FDA Food Code 2017)
What are the allergens in tartar sauce?
Standard tartar sauce always contains: eggs (in mayo and hard-boiled egg) and mustard (as a stabilizer). These are EU-mandatory allergens and FDA major allergens. The remoulade variant also contains fish (anchovy). The Worcestershire variant may contain celery and gluten.
Always declare all allergens present on the menu. When in doubt: always declare, never "probably not". Fines for incorrect allergen information can reach up to €2,250 per violation (NVWA enforcement guideline 2023). In the US, FDA can take enforcement action under FALCPA for mislabeled allergens.
Can I freeze tartar sauce?
Not recommended. Mayonnaise emulsions separate when frozen: the oil and water split and the sauce becomes grainy after thawing. The result is unsuitable for service. Always make fresh tartar sauce in small batches (500ml maximum) for daily use. Three days of shelf life is sufficient for most service concepts.
What is the difference between tartar sauce and remoulade?
Tartar sauce and remoulade are closely related but not identical. Remoulade (Escoffier 1903) contains anchovy, mustard and sometimes tarragon as additional elements. Tartar sauce is the simplified version without anchovy. In Dutch and international hospitality, "remoulade" and "tartar sauce" are often used interchangeably. Technically: if it contains anchovy, it is remoulade. Without anchovy: tartar sauce.
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Food safety & HACCP
The HACCP guidelines, temperatures and storage advice on this page are based on Codex Alimentarius (WHO/FAO) as the global baseline standard and EU Regulation 852/2004. Local laws and regulations may differ. Always consult your national food safety authority for the applicable standards in your region:
- Netherlands: NVWA (nvwa.nl)
- Belgium: FAVV (favv-afsca.be)
- Germany: BfR (bfr.bund.de)
- United Kingdom: FSA (food.gov.uk)
- United States: FDA (fda.gov) — FDA Food Code
- EU general: EU Regulation (EC) 852/2004 on food hygiene
- International: Codex Alimentarius CAC/RCP 1-1969 (revised 2020)
Allergens & dietary information
Allergen information is indicative. When in doubt about allergens in preparations, always contact the supplier or a certified allergological adviser. KitchenNmbrs accepts no liability for allergic reactions or diet-related harm.
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All sources mentioned (Escoffier, McGee, CIA Professional Chef, etc.) are the property of their respective publishers and authors. KitchenNmbrs cites these works in accordance with fair use for informational purposes. The source attribution at the bottom of each sauce page is not a complete bibliography but an indication of primary sources consulted.
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- Escoffier, Auguste. Le Guide Culinaire. Flammarion, Paris, 1903. Sauce tartare and remoulade: definition, preparation, variants. Primary historical kitchen reference.
- Larousse Gastronomique. Editions Larousse, Paris, 2009. Sauce tartare, cornichon, capers. Culinary encyclopedia with historical context.
- The Culinary Institute of America (CIA). The Professional Chef, 9th edition. Wiley, Hoboken, 2011. Chapter 11: Cold sauces and mayonnaise derivatives. Professional kitchen standard.
- NVWA. Hygiene Code for Hospitality, 2023 edition. nvwa.nl. Section: Egg Products, Cold Sauces, Storage Temperatures, Allergen Information. HACCP reference.
- McGee, Harold. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. Scribner, New York, 2004. pp.628-630 (emulsions, mustard as stabilizer). Scientific reference.
- FDA Food Code 2017. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Egg safety and cold sauce storage requirements. International reference for food safety.
HACCP guidelines are based on NVWA Hygiene Code for Hospitality (2023), EU Regulation 852/2004 and 853/2004, and FDA Food Code 2017. Allergen information is legally required under EU Regulation (EU) No. 1169/2011 and FDA FALCPA. Mayonnaise and egg products in cold sauces: max 7°C / 45°F storage mandatory. Local regulations may vary.
