Emulsifying
Hollandaise, béarnaise, mayonnaise: emulsions are the foundation of classical cuisine. Understand the science of lecithin, the HACCP safety zones for egg yolk and when making your own truly pays off.
In brief
An emulsion is a stable dispersion of two normally immiscible liquids (oil and water) by means of an emulsifier. In the kitchen, egg yolk, mustard and lecithin are the primary emulsifiers. Hollandaise, béarnaise, mayonnaise and vinaigrette are all emulsions.
- Egg yolk contains approximately 10% lecithin (phosphatidylcholine), a molecule with a fat-soluble and a water-soluble end that keeps fat droplets suspended in water. (Harold McGee, On Food and Cooking, Scribner 2004)
- 1 egg yolk can emulsify a maximum of approximately 300 ml oil for mayonnaise. With more oil the emulsion breaks. (CIA The Professional Chef, 9th ed., 2011)
- Hollandaise is a warm emulsion: oil (butter) in water (egg yolk + reduction), stable between 60°C and 68°C. Above 70-72°C egg yolk proteins begin to coagulate and the emulsion breaks.
- Mayonnaise is a cold emulsion: oil in vinegar/lemon juice, stabilised by lecithin in egg yolk. pH below 4.6 is required for microbiological stability in commercial use. (FDA Food Safety)
- Béarnaise is a derivative of hollandaise: the same emulsion method, but with a reduction of tarragon, shallots and white wine instead of lemon juice. (Auguste Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire, 1903)
The three classic emulsion sauces
Hollandaise
Warm emulsion: egg yolk + reduction (wine/vinegar) + clarified butter. Serving temperature: 60-65°C. Classic with asparagus, poached egg, fish.
Béarnaise
Variant of hollandaise with tarragon reduction. Identical emulsion method. Classic with meat (fillet, rib-eye). Serving temperature: 60-65°C.
Mayonnaise
Cold emulsion: egg yolk + mustard + oil + acid. 70-80% oil by weight. pH < 4.6 for microbiological safety. Max 300 ml oil per egg yolk.
Beurre Blanc
Semi-emulsion: butter particles suspended in reduced wine vinegar. Stabilised by milk proteins in butter. Stability zone: 50-65°C.
Step-by-step method
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1
Clarify the butter
Heat butter slowly until the milk proteins settle and skim off the white foam. Clarified butter has greater stability in the emulsion and a higher smoke point (approximately 252 °C) than regular butter.
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2
Prepare the reduction base
Reduce white wine or vinegar with shallots and white peppercorns to one third of the volume. Strain and allow to cool to room temperature. This is the flavour base of the hollandaise.
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3
Whisk egg yolks with reduction au bain-marie
Whisk egg yolks with the cooled reduction in a stainless steel bowl over a pan of warm water (bain-marie). Target water temperature: 65-70 °C. The egg yolk must pasteurise while you whisk to the ribbon stage: the mixture doubles in volume and becomes pale yellow and thick.
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4
Check egg yolk temperature
Egg yolk must reach 63 °C for 1 minute to pasteurise (or 71 °C for 15 seconds). Use a thermometer. Above 70-72 °C the protein structures begin to coagulate. (EU Regulation 852/2004; USDA FSIS)
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5
Emulsify the butter
Add the warm clarified butter drop by drop while whisking continuously. The first 50 ml is critical: the emulsion must be well established before you can pour faster. Lecithin in the egg yolk coats the fat droplets and prevents phase separation.
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6
Maintain serving temperature
Serve the hollandaise immediately or hold warm at a maximum of 60-63 °C. Use a bain-marie or thermal container. Above 70 °C the emulsion breaks due to denaturation of egg yolk proteins.
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7
Rescue a broken emulsion
Start with a clean bowl and whisk 1 tablespoon of hot water. Add the broken sauce drop by drop while continuing to whisk. Alternative: whisk a fresh egg yolk, then add the broken sauce. (CIA Professional Chef, 2011)
HACCP: egg yolk and food safety
Egg Yolk, Pasteurisation Requirements (EU 852/2004)
- Raw egg yolks are a risk product for Salmonella. EU Regulation 852/2004, Annex II, Chapter IX requires adequate heat treatment for products based on raw eggs that are served warm.
- Pasteurisation standard for egg yolk: 63°C for a minimum of 1 minute, or 71°C for 15 seconds. Always measure with a probe thermometer in the egg yolk mixture. (USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service)
- Serving temperature: Hollandaise must be served at a minimum of 60°C to prevent bacterial growth. Never hold for more than 2 hours above 60°C.
- Cooling and reuse prohibition: Hollandaise that has dropped below 60°C may not be reused or reheated. Discard it. This is a strict HACCP requirement.
- Alternative: Use pasteurised egg yolks (commercially available) if your HACCP plan excludes heat treatment of egg yolk.
Source: EU Regulation 852/2004, Annex II Chapter IX; USDA FSIS "Safe Food Handling: Eggs" — fsis.usda.gov
Homemade versus ready-made
| Aspect | Homemade | Ready-made |
|---|---|---|
| Ingredient cost (6-8 portions) | €1.20-€1.80 | €3.50-€6.00 |
| Preparation time | 15-20 minutes | 2-3 minutes |
| HACCP procedures required | Yes (thermometer, time logging) | Minimal (already pasteurised) |
| Shelf life after preparation | Max 2 hours above 60°C | Per manufacturer (days once opened) |
| Flavour quality | Superior (fresh, complex) | Uniform, preservatives |
| Suitable for busy service | Yes, with thermal container | Yes |
Frequently asked questions
How do I prevent hollandaise from breaking?
What is the difference between hollandaise and béarnaise?
Is homemade hollandaise safe for food service?
How much oil can 1 egg yolk emulsify for mayonnaise?
Can I make hollandaise in advance?
What is the food cost difference between homemade and ready-made hollandaise?
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Food safety & HACCP
The HACCP guidelines, temperatures and storage advice on this page are based on Codex Alimentarius (WHO/FAO) as the global baseline standard and EU Regulation 852/2004. Local laws and regulations may differ. Always consult your national food safety authority for the applicable standards in your region:
- Netherlands: NVWA (nvwa.nl)
- Belgium: FAVV (favv-afsca.be)
- Germany: BfR (bfr.bund.de)
- United Kingdom: FSA (food.gov.uk)
- United States: FDA (fda.gov) — FDA Food Code
- EU general: EU Regulation (EC) 852/2004 on food hygiene
- International: Codex Alimentarius CAC/RCP 1-1969 (revised 2020)
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- Auguste Escoffier — Le Guide Culinaire (Flammarion, 1903)
- CIA Professional Chef (Wiley, 9th ed. 2011)
- Harold McGee — On Food and Cooking (Scribner, 2004)
- EU Regulation 852/2004 — heat treatment of raw eggs
- USDA FSIS — Safe Handling of Eggs
